Fry me a river

- Cajun fries ... I didn't invent them, but was an early adopter
You love them, I love them, we all love them.
That’s why french fries (aka chups) are served in nearly every dining establishment in the city. Some try to do it all fancy pants, some try to do it not at all. But at the end of the day, we know we just love a plate of fries with Friday drinks. Sophistication be damned.
I’m a chunky guy. I was at Dockside for dinner the other night, and I refused to order fish and chips (even though it looked damn fine on the next table) because they serve shoestring fries. I know people that swear by the skinny thinny things, but I won’t abide them. Too much grease not enough spud I say. And that’s a discerning attitude when generally all you have in a plate of the deep fried friends is grease and spud.
I’m a stickler for a good french fry … and there are some fabulous ones in this town. I started out digging fries when I worked at the Pegasus Arms as a university student and on Mondays I was in charge of the place. Quiet night Monday. I did the drinks, the bar snacks, and the entertainment (i.e. my scintillating barman conversation). In order to spice things up, I started tossing the french fries in a pinch or two of cajun spice before serving them. Well blow me hot potato gently, the old diggers who plied themselves with ale and cheap wine at the Pegasus loved it. I loved it too.
Another favourite memory is from a visit to New York City as a kid, and eating cross-cut fries at Ottomanelli’s. Where are they Wellington? Given the absence of cross cut availability, these days I go for the chunky cut, well-cooked varietal, favouring a bit of aioli or hickory BBQ sauce on the side.
If I’m picking favourites in town … Green Man does good fries, in their marvellous conical containers, similar to the Belgians at Leuven. The General Practitioner turns out a fine pottle of potato which are sort of flat cut and sometimes a little lightly cooked, but crunchy-soft and moreish nonetheless. A recent discovery was the potato skins at Hop Garden in Pirie St, a delicious way to make a quid out of the scraps of the spud, could’ve had two lots easy. Cocktails don’t really fit with fries, but the purveyors at Cuckoo know they are a staple not to be ignored, and pull some fri-nery from the kitchen next door at Foxglove. Can’t forget the gravy on the side at St Johns either, a tasty condimentary twist.
But most will agree the finest of fine in the Wellington region is the curly fries at Sweet Mother’s Kitchen, and now at sister eatery Thunderbird on Featherston. I can almost hear you salivating … mmmm … curly fries. And I haven’t even mentioned the cajun aioli that comes with them. Takes me back, it does.
I spent a good four minutes tossing up whether to buy a rather expensive piece of plastic at Moore Wilson the other day, because it promised with the flick of a wrist and a deft and considered twist it would deliver curly fries from a spud, just needing cooking.
But as you know, it’s never the same. Oven fries just don’t compare to bar snack fries. Home-cooked wedges just come out a touch not, compared to the salsa smeared sour cream covered bowls parked next to a beer downtown. I’ll keep my curly fries for a special occasion, when I can sit down and indulge all proper-like at Sweet Mother’s. I think the plastic basket has a certain ambiance too.
My black list for fries? Black Harp and Cambridge. Too big and too sloppy, respectively.
Where else is good?
- By Nick, 15 comments
- Posted 9 March 2011








15 comments
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Love the fries at Green Man. Their curry sauce is to die for!
By Paul, 15 March 2011
Not a fan of shoestrings either.
Can totally vouch for Ti Kouka's fries. Spectacular. Not sure if it counts, but Estadio's cassava fries are amazing too...
By hungryandfrozen, 15 March 2011
I have a slight hot chip addiction myself and agree with you, Sweet Mother's Kitchen have the best curly fries in town! Recommendation - J&M's fries with are also pretty good with their secret seasoning. My flatmate swears by them!
By Sheetal Bhana, 15 March 2011
Gotta say I love Thunderbird curly fries. But then, I love Thunderbird all round.
By David Grice, 17 March 2011
Try out Patatas Bravas at Liquidate on The Terrace. Stacked in a jenga-style pile, perfectly seasoned and with a salsa or aioli on the side. YUM! Well accompanied by their new scrummy tapas menu..
By Sarah, 17 March 2011
you forgot to mention the most AMAZING curley fries and beer battered fries ever at PUBLIC!!!! we always go there just for the fries and theyre cheap too for a huge bowl with nom spicy aioli deffo one to try if you love a good chip!
By Rachel, 17 March 2011
I third Sweet Mothers Kitchen! delicious curly fries. Does anyone know where I could get kumara chips (besides Burger Fuel) or some chilly fries?.
Would love to see some more experimentation in the city with spice and herbs and dips.
By Jolene Simoes, 17 March 2011
I couldn't agree more. I say ban skinny chips. Some establishments will serve chunky when asked to substitute. It's worth asking. Eventually restaurants might get the message.........I hope!
By N Brockie, 17 March 2011
I am a true fan of the shoestring. Carb sticks as a vessel for crispy, salty fat. Brilliant. What makes shoestrings good is the fat of choice. For those who love shoestring, there are a couple of places in town who fry them in duck fat, and above this there is Cozy Cake on Manners. They have some evil secret recipe which is amazing.
By Nick, 17 March 2011
Tried some polenta fries at Coco's Cantina in Auckland recently... woah!!
By Stu as "Stu", 18 March 2011
The truffles fries at Logan Brown are damn good.
By Steve, 21 March 2011
Chill on Willis Street used to do double-fried Beer Battered chunky chups. Holy mother, they were good. So, so good. The best fries I've *ever* eaten in fact. I cannot say whether they're still on the menu - they changed hands a year or so ago and I haven't been back since.
By JA, 21 March 2011
The fries at Joe's Garage are good, and served with gravy. Well priced too. My faves though are the chunky chips fried in duck fat from Capri on Featherston St. Mmmm.. duck fat..
By Catherine, 21 March 2011
I don't get the fuss about SMK curly fries. Yes the shape is good, but the taste... Pretty average. Recently had the chips at Finc and will definitely go back!
By Sarah, 27 March 2011
fish fins in newtown are the best in town ,go salve
By kevin murphy, 4 April 2011