Live at the Matterhorn
Stop all the clocks. The Matterhorn has passed into the hands of Aucklanders. After 14 years of local ownership, our most famous bar has been sold to the Pack Group, an investment company specialising in ‘hospitality concepts’ which include the Lone Stars, Wagamama, and new bar Foxglove, which opened in the old Loaded Hog a couple of weeks ago. A stylish new waterfront bar is certainly a good concept, which is just as well as they’ve ploughed more than a million dollars into its refit. And now they can add to their porfolio what is periodically touted as Australasia’s finest bar and official winner of the 2008 Cuisine Restaurant of the Year award.
The parochial, skeptical and cynical – so that would be most of Wellington – will be anticipating the Matterhorn’s death by a thousand cuts, or at least some dropping of the ball or a dividend-driven dumb down. Last Saturday I dined at the Horn to take a reading for posterity.
After an enjoyable 90-minute wait for a table we were ushered into that super-groovy dining room and settled in next to the fireplace which emitted an occasional burp of atmospheric woodsmoke. First off, oysters au naturel from Waiheke ($3.50 each), although the menu boasted two of other origin, alas unavailable. They arrived on a bed of salt crystals with balsamic and lemon. Our second entrée was the duck dish: ‘szechuan’ breast, liver & cognac parfait, rillettes of leg, and neck sausage, accompanied by a fruit jelly, pear compote and brioche. It was $25, but divisible by two and delicious.
The least memorable main was the groper wrapped in Asian greens, steamed and accompanied by beluga lentils, eggplant pickle and curried clams. It had a gingery twist and was molecularly gastronomised with an ejaculation of white foam. My companion likened it to a second-round Masterchef effort, then blamed herself for choosing a dish with too many components. This, however, is hard to avoid. For me, the snapper with sautéed fennel & orange, rouille toast, and a bouillabaisse-style sauce. An accomplished dish, it was let down only by a little over-cooking and a tad too much salt. The twice-baked gorgonzola soufflé lacked levity but atoned with intense flavour and an inventive side salad of radish, apple crisps, sugared walnuts and a whipped blue cheese & apple dressing. The chunky chips were good, the green beans perfectly al dente and daubed with hazelnut mayo.
Afters comprised ‘Apples & pears’ – a nondescript pear custard, luscious apple sorbet and ginger-poached pear – and a board of fine cheeses with muscatels, quince paste and homemade bread & crackers courtesy of the Horn’s Danish baker, also responsible for the gratis petit fours that were set before us à la waffer [sic] thin mint. We reconstituted with a sojourn in the by-now frisky garden bar where an outrageously medicinal French digestif set things right.
Did we have a ball? You bet we did. The Matterhorn is still New Zealand’s best night out in one place. Long may the fire burn.
7 comments
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The Pack group aren't actually "Aucklanders". They all hale from the South Island, but have their company based in Auckland, I guess for obvious businessy reasons (better weather & less boy racers).
By Hoof, 28 June 2010
...did I use the wrong homophone of hail / hale?
I've have never had to write that saying before. Oh no, my first published work is a mess!!
By Hoof, 28 June 2010
Thanks Hoof. Well corrected. They should be able to get some good deals on Cardrona lamb, then! I see the Horn has made the finals of the Cuisine 2010 Restaurant of the Year, so they keep on scaling those dizzy heights.
By Sarah, 29 June 2010
Is it true?
I heard the new owners have replace the New Zealand boutique beers on tap with the commercial insipid liquid from DB.
By Chris Young, 8 July 2010
My first visit to Matterhorn, enjoyed a wait for table long enough for cocktails, had one dish in common the twice baked souffle agree with your comments am going back next time in Wellington and will see if any change from another month of new management
By David, 8 July 2010
With much regret I have to add support to the "death by 1000 cuts" theory. My last two Matterhorn experiences have been consistent. Food remains very good but service, the thing I believe set the Horn apart, is going down fast. The later December visit was a business lunch (any half decent waiter should see the financial opportunity for their owners). As well as multiple missed tapas dishes, which I had expected from a waiter with his head so far up his own arse that he couldn’t bring himself to use a note pad, arguments over what drinks were ordered versus delivered and twice left with all 12 at our table without a drink! OK for Lonely Planet clutching tourists and others riding out its past reputation but I recommend others look elsewhere – which might be the message the Pack Group need to sort their shit out.
By Jason, 27 December 2010
Following a recent dalliance at Matterhorn I too share the same heartfelt regrets with Mr “Jason” above. If the current state of this establishment ranks 16th best bar in the world then I need not travel to find another bar in my lifetime, for I have already been to more than 15 others that are clearly better.
The once vibrant bar has been caught napping and resting on its laurels following it’s not too distant successes, it’s simply nihil novi. The lacklustre (at best) service would best be described as vacant and the state you find yourself in: thirsty. If this Wellington “institution” wants to keep up its name it must adapt and change with the people who enjoy it.
I believe this once great Matterhorn mountain has crumbled to something resembling a small hill. A redub is in order, maybe the name ‘Mt Eden’ or another such unimpressive hill would be more fitting.
By FoodInMyBeard, 18 January 2011